The First Hike.

“F*!k You Roy’s” became an unwelcome chant as we hiked the Milford Trail in New Zealand in 2020. This is where our bug to hike and travel started but we never knew where it would lead. Let’s back up…

In 2019, Kamee was fresh off a trip to Iceland with her mom. They spent 10 days running through the country and exploring the many waterfalls and hotdog stands. While there, Kamee asked a couple on the trip what their must-see places were. Without hesitation, they said the Milford Track in New Zealand; a multi-day, 32.5 mile, hike through New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park, and notoriously difficult to secure a spot for. Kamee immediately signed up for a lottery and got two reservations! She planned to go with her mother but as it happened so fast, her Mom was busy planning her departure to do the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and unable to attend. Without a travel buddy, Kamee was determined to go it alone and take her first big international adventure by herself. Herb had other plans….

At the time, Herb and Kamee worked for the same company and were colleagues on the same projects. During one of their work meetings, it was brought up that Kamee was headed to Milford. Herb had spent time in NZ after college and had tried to get into the hike but it was full. This day started a two-month long, slow beat-down, of Kamee’s will as Herb systematically tried everything he could to get invited to take Kamee’s second spot. Herb won.

We decided to meet up in Queenstown a few days into Kamee’s trip, head to the hike, and then go our separate ways again post hike. Kamee was convinced this was a major mistake, would ruin their work relationship, and was worried about her colleague discovering she might snore and actually had bodily functions as they had to sleep in bunk rooms with all the hikers on the trip! Herb was worried that New Zealand would not live up to his amazing memories of it 20 years prior. This trek was #2 on his bucket list- what if it wasn’t all he built it up to be?

Fast forward to January 12, 2020.

Place Fergburger, Queenstown:

We met up for one of the most delicious burgers and made plans for a warm-up hike the next day before heading off to Milford Sound. Enter Roy’s Peak…. here is our first piece of advice: Kiwis have a vastly different difficulty scale when it comes to rating treks. Roy’s, located at Lake Wanaka, was rated as an easy to moderate 1.5 hour hike. Long story short, because it took us close to 4 hours, it was VERY steep, we should have taken more water, and worn hiking boots. Thinking it was easy, we wore tennis shoes and took a very small bottle of water. Our knees and muscles were shot and we were not in peak condition to set out on our 3 night, 4 day trek through the Milford Sound. “F*!k you Roy’s!” But the views were gorgeous!

The next morning we loaded into the rental car and headed to Te Anau to catch a ferry to the start of the Milford Trek! After the hike we would catch a bus back to Te Anau so we left the rental car, with all of our non-hiking gear hidden away in the trunk, in the ferry parking lot. Lots of people do this and it was nice and safe when we returned.

The trek can be done in two different ways, “free hikers”: you book your own trek and carry all of your food, gear, and sleeping goods to use in Department of Conservation (DOC) managed bunk huts; or “day hikers”: you book through a travel company that takes care of all of your lodging, food, and gear transport- the luxury way. There is a steep cost and experience difference between the two options, so do what you prefer. We loved doing it ourselves and found the constant helicopters transporting the “day hikers” gear and goods to be very distracting from the beauty of the hike. The camps are also in different locations for “free hikers” vs “day hikers” so all of the camps and mileage we talk about will only be applicable to the “free hikers”. This was our agenda:

Day 1:

Ferry to Glade Warf
Hike Glade Warf to Clinton Hut 5km (1-1.5 hrs)

Day 2:

Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut 17.5km (6 hrs)

Day 3:

Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut 13 km (6-7 hrs)

Day 4:

Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point 18km (5.5-6 hrs)
Ferry to Milford Sound
Bus from Milford Sound to Te Anau

Day1:

Day one was short and easy and so full of excitement! We loaded up on the ferry and took the most beautiful journey across the Milford Sound. The water was cerulean blue and pristine and we were surrounded by forested peaks. We felt like we were being transported into a different world and it was amazing to feel all of the real life things like work, schedules, and stresses of everyday life fade out of the main screen of your brain. The ferry took about an hour and 15 minutes. You pile all of your backpacks on the back of the ferry and are free to wander around to take in the views and snap a few pictures. We were blessed with gorgeous weather our entire trip but it can be quite rainy, so be prepared with wet weather gear for your and your pack. (We have listed some of our favorite and must-have gear items below, if you are interested in what we took) When you arrive to Glade Warf, you have to walk through sanitizing trays to clean your boots of any possible contaminants to ensure the protected forest remains healthy.

Our arrival to Glad Warf to begin the Milford Trek!

And then we were off to hike! We snapped a few pics to commemorate the moment and headed out on the trail. It was an easy and flat hike the first day, just 5 km to the Clinton Hut. We took so many pictures day one that the hike took us slightly longer than an hour! We thought every bend in the trail was the most beautiful thing we had ever seen…. we only had to wait for all of the beauty that awaited us as we went deeper into the trek! We arrived at the hut, with plenty of daylight, and were greeted by the hut ranger. He gathered all of the hikers around for a quick talk that included, hut rules, what the journey would look like the next day including hiking times and suggested time for departure, and then took us on a nature hike around the hut pointing out flora and fauna of the area. We were then released to go set up our bunks, make some dinner and kill some time until it got dark. We would meet back up with the ranger for a night hike to go look for glow worms! We definitely found some and it was very cool to see the almost neon blue/green glow of the worms in caves and under uprooted trees. This was also a great time to get to know some of the other people in our hiking group. After our glow worm adventure, it was time to get ready for bed. Each hut has a basic bathroom (men and women each have one) with toilets and sinks. For the Clinton hut, there was one big bunk house with dividers and 8 bunks per room division, 40 bunks in total. There was also a “kitchen” hut with a sink and tables and a few burners. You need to bring all of your own food, drink, cooking and eating utensils, and a Jetboil or some sort of cooking set up if you didn’t want to wait for burners. Before bed, we were also given the “snoring” talk… Each hut had some variation of this that consisted of the same points: if you snore- take your bunk mattress into the kitchen so you don’t disturb everyone, earplug use is suggested, if you snore and don’t know it- someone will wake you up and ask you to move. If you have ever done group travel, you know these rules always seem “optional” to the actual snorers in the group! So, definitely take earplugs if you plan to do this trip!

Kamee had a fitful night of sleep wondering if she was a snorer, and planning how to she would execute getting ready in the morning in a shared bathroom, while not revealing that she was a fully functioning human to Herb ;) Herb slept like a baby and never had a worry cross his mind about bathroom time ;)

Day 2:

Day 2 was one of the longer days at 17.5 km but was mostly a flat/gradual climb until the last 1/4 of the hike. The hike takes you along the Clinton River to Lake Mintaro. You then travel past Hirere Falls. We stopped here for a snack and watched some of the other hikers swim in the fridged falls. The hike ends with a steeper climb through a rock slide and into the forest. It happened to be quite humid that day so once we got up into the forest, we got attacked by sand flies. They bite so bring heavy duty bug spray! Kamee ran out of water on the climb and with the heat and humidity, she had to take a break and wait for Herb to finish and backtrack with some water… A short distance from camp was a deeper part of the river with a huge rock to jump off of. With the attack of the sandflies and the humid finish, many of the trekkers decided to go for a swim. Herb was game to try and launched off the rock, the river took him downstream bit when he popped, up- eyes wide…1…2…3… and let out the most curdled gasping scream anyone has every heard. That water was mighty cold.

Mintaro hut was set up quite differently and was two stories to accommodate the more forested setting. Our ranger chat this night included a few new items in addition to the “snore lecture”. Hiking boots needed to stay outside to avoid stench (!) but all boots needed to be tied together by the laces and tied around a hanging rod. “Why?”, you might ask? Thieving parrots! The Kea- a winged, beautiful thief- is a naturally curious bird that started interacting with, mimicking, and stealing items from humans for survival. We were also given a lengthier talk about the next day’s hike that would have us summiting McKinnon Pass. This included timing so that we arrived at the next hut before sunset, what to do in case of injury, how to dress to avoid getting too cold on the pass, as well as where we were allowed to stop for lunch- this was because the lunch hut was shared with the “day hikers” and they had a lunch schedule that we needed to be out of the lunch hut for.

The hut set-up had a separate bathroom building down below the main hut. The main hut had the kitchen room with a fireplace downstairs. There was a sink and burners and picnic style tables. People were a bit sore this night after our first big day so there wasn’t as much socializing on night 2. A few card games were played and then we headed upstairs for bed. The bunks were set up in little cubbies in this hut with two built-in cots per cubby. This helped cut out light and snoring a bit more and both of us slept like the dead!

Day 3:

We had an early start for this 13 km day with an 1154m summit over McKinnon Pass. We were set for this day to be the most beautiful and most challenging day. We summited in record time and thought we were flying high and enjoying the spectacular views. At lunch at the top of the pass we learned that a father/son duo in our group would have to end their journey early. The father had sprained his ankle and wouldn’t be able to make it down the pass. The rangers were contacted and a helicopter was brought in to take them back to Te Anau for medical care. It was a sad blow for the group but we were so happy they were able to get help and make it out safely. Then we started down the pass with plans to take the side hike to Sutherland Falls. This is where things started to slip for Kamee. The path up the pass was steep but more or less a gravel and sand path. The path down was an adventure in downhill bouldering… Kamee’s knee decided this wasn’t in the plan and the trek down took almost triple the amount of time as the summit. “F*!k You Roy’s”! Pain started to take over which drains the energy tank faster. Snacks were consumed, water was chugged and refilled from waterfalls and streams, and Kamee was bonking- HARD. Although physically challenging and exhausting, this is really where the experience of the hike turned into something magical. The hikers in our group started to share knee braces, offer to lighten the backpack load, and share jokes or stories to pass the time and distract the mind. This is also when Herb decided to share some of the arsenal of stories he lived while traveling through Australia and New Zealand after college. Although Kamee’s knee was barely functioning, she was laughing her tail off at Herb’s adventures and missteps! Finally we made it down the pass and to the “day hikers” cabins, which was the offshoot to the 1.5 hr side hike to Sutherland Falls, a 580m fall in three stunning leaps. Upon reaching the rest hut, Kamee informed Herb to take amazing pictures of the falls and she would meet him at the Dumpling Hut for the night. Herb set off for the waterfall hike while Kamee refueled and set off on the last leg of the day’s hike to Dumpling Hut. Upon her glorious arrival at the huts, she joined up with another hiking duo, Ben and Rachel- best friends who meet up for hikes all over the world once a year! Everyone quickly changed and headed down to a swimming hole to refresh and wash off the day’s blood, sweat, and tears! Swimming hole chatter included Rachel telling Kamee that she currently had a blown ACL and was doing the hike anyway and blew past Kamee, by hours, on the downhill…. Kamee’s knee problem suddenly felt very insignificant! The freezing glacier run-off that we called a swimming hole was more like a necessary icebath. Again, the sand flies made their presence known, so bug spray was a must or staying completely submerged in the water- pick your poison!

Dumpling hut was a series of huts each containing 8 bunks, a separate bathroom hut, and a separate kitchen hut, all set up around a grassy courtyard. After the hardest day of hiking, this was the most relaxing hut and the most fun night. We really got to chatting with a few groups of hikers, swapped stories, played lots of cards, and shared hiking experiences. Herb was accused of cheating at cards by, a very correct, 9 year old from England and her, very posh, “Herb, you’re cheating!”, exclamation became another fun quote of the trip! The Ranger talk was short and sweet mostly about timing for departure the next day to ensure we didn’t miss the ferry. The ferry fills up quickly and there are only so many so you don’t want to risk not having a spot or not making the last ferry.

Day 4:

The last day had arrived! It was bittersweet to be finishing up such an epic hike and saying goodbye to everyone we met. But first we were feeling we had to get going to make good time and not miss our ferry. We were told day 4, the longest mileage day at 18 km, was pretty even all being a “NZ flat”. Reminding you about the kiwi difficulty scale, a NZ flat isn’t flat. It apparently means it has as many climbs as descents so, net/net, it is flat! The day takes you along the Arthur River, by MacKay Falls, Bell Rock, and Lake Ada, ending at the boat shed to catch the ferry. We made quick time of it and snapped a final shot with the mileage sign at the end of the hike. We had about a 40 minute wait for our ferry and then enjoyed a really fun and gorgeous cruise across the sound. Once there, we had a little time to use the bathroom or catch a vending machine snack, before we loaded on the bus back to Te Anau. The bus ride was great fun as all of the groups we became friends with were on the same bus. There were many laughs, a bit of light-hearted razzing, some swapping of snacks for those continuing to another hike, and plans made with those heading to Queenstown to meet up for drinks. Arriving at Te Anau was a different matter as on the three hour bus ride, our muscles had time to realize what we had just completed and seized up. There were many groans and much stilted walking as we disembarked from the bus. “F*!k You Roy’s”!

We mentioned that we had fantastic weather for our time on the trek. It was sunny and clear but that is not typical. By the time we finished the hike, the Sound had not had rain in 10 days and this was considered a severe drought! The group that did the track the week after us had to be helicoptered out and was unable to complete the hike due to torrential downpours. So, if this is something you are considering doing, do bring wet weather gear because you never know what you will get.

We thought this was the end of our adventure together but something had been brewing the past four days…. while herb was regaling Kamee with stories from visits past, he was dropping hints that Kawarau Bridge was just outside of Queenstown. A bridge known for a great bungie jump. There were moments, while delirious from knee pain, that Kamee agreed to go, then would take it back the next morning. Although she had been skydiving and done other adrenaline pumping adventures, bungie jumping was never on that list. On the bus ride back to Te Anau, Herb gathered supporters to aid in his plan. For 3 hours, the bus crew took turns talking about how amazing the experience was and it shouldn’t be missed while in NZ. Kamee remained firm in her no, until she caved…. If they went tandem, she would try.

Bungie jumping was an experience, for sure. After getting weighed in and having it written in sharpie on your hand, you trudge out the bridge and are greeted by very exuberant employees blasting classic rock and harnessing people into bungies like a production line. Kamee was so nervous she didn’t know what people were saying to her. Like a zombie, she took the instructions, laid down to get harnessed in, waddled out to the platform, gripped Herb’s harness like a lifeline, told Herb to let go of the landing, and off they fell…. A scream like you have never heard came out of her. Something like a moose and a screeching cat combined, but she did it! Many beers were consumed after and Herb and Kamee congratulated each other on an adventure well finished!

Thank you for joining us on our first hike! We returned home to some world changing news, a lock down, and a delay in travel adventures. But what happens next is a story for another time. We hope you come back to join us then.

Cheers and happy trails!

Some Helpful Information and Links:

Milford Track Links

“Free Hikers” information and booking link
”Day Hikers” information and booking for the guided hike link

Gear That We Used and Loved (Contains affiliate links)

Waterproof hiking boots were a must!
Herb’s Boots
Kamee’s Boots
Herb’s Trekking poles
Kamee’s Trekking Poles
Built-in Filtration Waterbottle- saved us so many times so we could fill up in fresh water streams and falls
Herb’s Backpack
Kamee’s Backpack
Jetboil